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The charge current coming from the alternator is not going through the converter portion of your your panel as a converter converts AC power from shore power or a generator to DC power for your batteries. Since the alternator on your RV is already setup for DC it does not go through the converter.
First things first you will need to use a multimeter like the # PT89ZR to test the charge wire running from the alternator of your RV to your battery bank to see if... view full answer...
No, the Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger - Lithium # PD9160ALV has built in safety features to protect your RV's electrical system. Such as a reverse polarity protection that will protect the converter if the battery is hooked up incorrectly. It has short circuit protection as well, which limits the current and reduces the output until the short has been fixed. Additionally, the converter will shut down if there is excessive voltage. The built-in cooling... view full answer...
The converter is just one more appliance that's built into your RV's power center so there is the chance that it could be damaged or that it may still properly function. The converter is just a charger for your RV's battery and has its own circuit breaker in the AC distribution panel. You can test the output of the converter to the battery to determine if the converter is faulty and in need of replacement with part # PD4560CSV.
A power surge can damage everything connected through the... view full answer...
Since you don't have batteries in your 1995 NuWa RV, this indicates to me that your converter is the source of your issue.
Your next course of action should be to replace your current converter. Since you mentioned that you have the Magnetek Series 900 Model 940-2, you can use the:
-Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Smart Battery Charger # PD9260C as a replacement.
This converter charger has a rated output of 810 watts, an amperage output of 60A, and measures 9-1/8"... view full answer...
So I'll start by saying that the fuses on your # PD9180A (lead acid) or # PD9180ALV (lithium) converter would not be affected in this case since they're designed to protect against reverse polarity; they won't blow if there is a short on the system. Additionally, there isn't a reset on these converters so if it's not functioning you'll want to test to make sure it's not also been shorted out.
If the converter is not functioning you would need to also replace the converter with one of... view full answer...
I am not sure what exact converter you have but I have attached for you below troubleshooting steps on their most popular converters, the PD9100 and PD9200 Series. If you have a different converter, please let me know what that is and I would be glad to see if there are any other steps you can take to try and remedy the issue.
STEP # 1 Converter Output Voltage Test:
1- Using a 5/32 Allen wrench, loosen the screw and disconnect the Negative Battery wire from the RV converter Negative Output... view full answer...
You can either unwire the converter from your current power center and install a standalone converter or you can replace the power center with an all-in-one AC/DC distribution panel with a converter. If you want to only replace the converter you can use one like the Progressive Dynamics 9200 Inteli-Power Converter # PD9245C (lead acid) or # PD9145ALV for lithium. These require that you run a dedicated outlet for power and then hardwire it to the battery.
If you want to replace the entire... view full answer...
We don't offer the circuit boards for Magnetek power converters but I do recommend a complete replacement as more than just the circuit board could've been damaged. I recommend the Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger - 12V - 30 Amps Item # PD9130. The # PD9103 will convert AC shore power to DC power to quickly charge your RV batteries and provide continuous power to your DC breaker panel to run 12V loads. It works with flooded lead acid, AGM, and gel batteries.... view full answer...
Big rig types of trucks such as your Freightliner use a different type of 7-Way connector than what is used in the recreational market. The recreational market has brake lights and turn signals combined on the same circuit, one for each side. A commercial truck uses separate circuits for turn signals and brake lights.
Basically you will need to convert either the truck or the trailer. Converting the truck is easier especially if you are not going to be towing any big rig trailers. If... view full answer...
From the sounds of the issue, there does not appear to be a problem with the controller or the converter. In order to find the cause of the issue, the best way to proceed is to plug into a shore power source and trace the wires all the way to the outlet that has no power. This sometimes is the case when an aftermarket generator is added to an older model RV like your 1993 Fleetwood Limited. You can test the wiring trail throughout to test to see if there are any shorts with a circuit tester... view full answer...
Atwood Air Command AC systems do have a 12v converter in them but I couldn't say exactly where the converter would be positioned in the rooftop unit. You'd have to see most likely if you follow the bundle of wiring coming from the unit back you'll be able to rule out wires until you find the converter.
Unless you find just some damage to the wire or a loose connection that's fixable you most likely are looking at having to replace the entire system with one like the Furrion Chill HE RV... view full answer...
This has happened a few times before with the 2-Wire RV Propane Gas and Carbon Monoxide Detector - 12 Volt - Black # RS54FR, where someone replaces their old non-functioning alarm with a new one, but the new alarm appears not to work when the RV is plugged into shore power; but it does work when the RV is powered by the 12v battery. The problem is actually the 12v power converter, which is a more common problem on older RVs.
The power converter may appear to work, and will even read a... view full answer...
If the lights are dimmer than they should be that would indicate either the converter box of the Curt 2 to 3 Wire Tail Light Converter # C56196 is not properly operating and sending out the correct voltage or you may need to increase the gauge of the wire you ran on both sides of the converter.
I recommend checking the voltage going to the converter and leaving the converter with a digital multimeter like # PT29ZR to ensure you're getting 12v throughout. If you're not getting 12v to the... view full answer...
Yes, you'd need to have the part # HM56200 installed and plugged in using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 testing the voltage leading into the converter box and out of it when the taillight circuits of the tow vehicle are applied to determine if the problem is before the box, after it, or is the box.
I attached a video that shows how to do this as well. view full answer...
I spoke with Dometic in regards to your situation with the Dometic RM2351, and we both agreed that this is a converter issue.
If your refrigerator works when bypassing the trailer's electric, then the issue is with the trailer.
In your case I recommend upgrading your converter with the Replacement Converter for Parallax/Magnetek or WFCO RV Power Centers # PD4635V.
This is a direct upgrade/replacement for your Magnetek 6000A Model 6332, and will work with flooded lead acid, AGM, and gel... view full answer...
It's possible the noises you describe hearing from your RV's Converter/Charger when plugged into electricity are normal. If you listen closely you will also hear a humming sound which is also normal. The clicking and pinging sounds you are hearing are relays opening and closing or cooling fans kicking on and off.
If that's not the case then your converter may be trying too hard to keep up with the draw. You said you're using shore power so you'll want to make sure you're set to AC voltage... view full answer...
Typically when a converter like the Brite-Lite # RM-732 fails, and especially when it happens more than once, it is the result of a short somewhere in the wiring that needs to be addressed it will most likely happen again.
Before replacing the converter with a new one I highly recommend inspecting the wiring on both the RV and your towed vehicle. On any wiring you can easily access check for pinched sections, exposed copper, or otherwise damaged portions that needs to be replaced. Make... view full answer...
You most likely have an RV that has separate wiring and needs to be combined prior to your 6-way. I recommend using the Roadmaster Brite-Lite Wiring Converter # RM-732 to take these separate functions and combine them to correct your wiring for your trailer connector. I've attached a video to assist. Your other functions of your 6-way will just bypass the converter. view full answer...
Your LED Light Strip Kit with Wireless IR Remote # DG52688 will flicker if it's not receiving a steady 12v current. Since you stated you're only getting this issue when connecting it directly to the battery that leads me to believe the battery is the issue. I recommend using a multimeter # PT89ZR to test the voltage level of your battery. If it's under 12v then you'll know the battery is the issue. view full answer...
The green light on the Progressive Dynamics 4100 Series RV Converter # PD4135K is actually the status indicator light for the interrogated charge wizard.
Boost Mode: Indicated by green LED remaining on.
Normal Mode: When the battery is between 50% and 90% charged, the green LED will flash once per second.
Storage Mode: Indicated by green LED flashing every 6 - 8 seconds.
The charge wizard is only compatible with lead acid AGM batteries, if it is in lithium mode the charge wizard can... view full answer...
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